Curvilinear like the work of Katrin Bremermann, sinuous like Charles Eames sculptures. A winter collection of fluid designs which blend an austere aesthetic with artistic passion. At times sculptural rather than ethereal, the minimalism created by Gabriele Colangelo transposes shapes, weights and colours.
Sleeves and shoulders with cutting-edge volumes recreate the culture of the kimono, with stunning backs. Lapped seams with micro stitching embellish the imperceptible structure on this subtly luxurious collection, layered with consummate skill.
Discreet softness, visible at close quarters, like femininity. A studied take on the juxtaposition of severity and suppleness, with the hypnotic effect of plissé which transforms the illusion. The two-tone silk georgette, pleated and printed on both sides, has a mesmerizing effect, with contrasting backgrounds flowing together on GIADA grey. Leather also features strongly, with suede strips this time applied to plissé georgette. Constant alternation also plays out on the menswear-inspired wool on pleated silk skirts, carrying on to the knitwear. Micro pleats with knit overlays, or cashmere and mohair blends which hug the body in artfully brushed, gauzy volumes, transformed, however, with degradé fur internally. Butter-soft suede is reborn as an impalpable shirt dress, or double gilet, with napped reverse. Alongside these are slim-fitting trousers with slits at the heel or cropped ankle length trousers with a soft central pleat.
Short skirts are transformed into belts in shaved, almost velvet-like, mink. Deceptively luxurious materials are also a feature of the T micro cape and low-cut mink tunic with draped back. Only the colours are classic, a palette of warm grey, navy and storm blue, warmed by terracotta and accents of red, enlivened with flashes of green, plus light neutrals, a saturated olive shade and last but not least, white.
White also features on a foray into sculptural jewellery in wearable sinuous designs, inspired to Barbara Hepworth's sculptures, re-interpreted in either porcelain or cast, with resin mounted in gold. Chiselled heels with a chiaroscuro effect surge upwards in an undulating sculptural design. The sculptural aesthetic also features strongly on micro clutches with signature designs in suede or finished with a porcelain effect. The iconic Giada bag is available in the latest bucket bag style, handstitched on the back. The new handbag, created with a single dart, is a stylish geometric option worn over the shoulder, with Dragon hook.